The most effective way to combat aging skin, sun damage, pigmentation, lines and wrinkles is by combining corrective treatments offered within Esteem with an effective home skincare regime. Esteem’s choice – SkinCeuticals. They are our choice of products for one reason alone – they have the scientific research evidence to prove their products actually deliver results.

WHY SKIN AGES

Exposure to elements like sun, smoke, and air pollution can cause premature wrinkling, age spots, and other signs of aging. New research specifically shows that UVA rays, one section of the sun’s radiation, are responsible for many of the premature signs of aging in the skin, particularly wrinkles.

WHAT WILL PROPERLY PROTECT THE SKIN

The best protection from UVA radiation is to wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen that blocks both UVA & UVB rays. These sunscreens use zinc oxide which protects from both UVA and UVB rays. 

The Esteem team will advise you on the appropriate use of a sun filter to suit your skin type and your situation.  For example, a strong waterproof sun filter is recommended for the beach, whilst a more subtle cosmetic sun filter with a makeup base may be better for day-to-day use at the office.  Sun filter preparations for sensitive skins are also available. 

The body uses antioxidants to protect itself from free radical attack caused by UV exposure. Supplementing the body’s natural reservoir of antioxidants with a topical Vitamin C, has been shown to work below the skin’s surface to neutralise free radicals and protect against UV damage.

Without a doubt, the most exciting Vitamin C formulation available at Esteem is the SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic.  Both Vitamins C & E are very powerful antioxidants which work well together as the Vitamin C helps replenish Vitamin E when it is inactivated.  This patented product lets high concentrations of these very potent antioxidants enter the skin.  The affects of this are far reaching and include protection against UV exposure, stimulation of new collagen formation, enhanced immune protection, improvement in photo-aging changes, reduction of inflammation and promotion of healing.

ALL VITAMIN C IS NOT THE SAME

With many Vitamin C products on the market today, it is important to choose a topical antioxidant with an effective formulation. It needs to get into the skin, and remember, skin is designed to keep things out. When it comes to scientific proof behind skincare, SkinCeuticals sets the standard with published peer-reviewed science, supporting the efficiency of their topical anti-oxidant serums.

Studies at Duke University show that effective topical Vitamin C must possess the following characteristics:

It must contain pure l-ascorbic acid. Derivatives of Vitamin C such as ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are not absorbed by the skin or converted into Vitamin C in high enough concentrations to have a significant effect.

It must contain high concentrations of l-ascorbic acid for maximum efficiency. A topical Vitamin C serum must contain a substantial amount of l-ascorbic acid while remaining stable to be effective. When formulated properly, a 20 percent concentration provides the maximum amount of Vitamin C readily absorbed by the skin.

It must be at acid pH. Vitamin C must be formulated at an acid pH below 3.5 to effectively be absorbed by the skin. As pH increases, absorption rate decreases.

THE SKINCEUTICALS DIFFERENCE

RETIN-A

Retin-A is the trade name for a drug known as Tretinoin.  Stieva-A and Airol are also trade names for the same compound.  It is a compound closely related to Vitamin A.  It was initially discovered and used 20 years ago in the treatment of acne.  Since then its uses have diversified and it has shown particular promise in the treatment of sun-damaged skin and pigmentation problems.

How will Retin-A help me?

Sun damage in skin has been found to be much more common than thought.  The effect of this exposure is to cause a low grade inflammatory reaction in the skin which results in damage to the fibrous supporting network of the skin (collagen).  The loss of support makes the skin looser and it becomes wrinkled and saggy.  In addition, the outer layer of the skin also becomes thicker which leads to a dry leathery texture.  Also, the skin may become irregularly pigmented or mottled.

Microscopic examination of the skin treated with Retin-A shows a range of changes.  There is an increase in collagen formation which expands the dermal compartment of the skin and flattens out wrinkles.  The activity of the pigment producing cells of the skin are reduced which causes the fading of areas of hyper-pigmentation or mottling.  There is exfoliation (peeling) of the skin resulting in a smoother surface.  Areas of thickened pre-cancerous change in the skin are obliterated.  It is hoped that this latter feature, plus the anti-tumour effects of Retin-A will prevent progression to skin cancer.

Acne

Retin-A decreases the activity of the oil glands and improves their drainage.  It will usually silence active acne and may assist in the recovery of skin scarred by acne.

Pigmentation

Retin-A used alone or in combination will usually lighten pigmentation patches by thinning the epidermis and decreasing activity in the pigmented cells.

Skin Conditioning

Retin-A is routinely used for pre-treatment of skin where chemical peeling or dermabrasion is considered.  It will go some of the way to achieving the desired improvement on its own, but also makes skin recover from these procedures more rapidly.

Guidelines for Treatment

Although improvement may be apparent after only a few weeks, substantial benefit with Retin-A may take four months to show.  Maximum benefit is usually apparent after a year at which stage treatment is often reduced in frequency.  However, it is strongly advised that maintenance treatment be continued for the rest of your life.  This may seem a burden but in fact, use of Retin A can lead to a simpler, healthier skincare programme.  Treatment is individualised by adjusting the amount of Retin-A applied and the frequency.  The aim of treatment is to progress to use maximum amounts of Retin-A over a period of time.  You will see some redness, itching, peeling, dryness, tightness and even soreness.  These symptoms are more marked in the first month or so of usage.  If these are excessive, they could lead to abandonment of the treatment with loss of potential benefit.  Therefore, it is generally advised that Retin-A be started slowly and dosage gradually increased.  Retin-A is best applied at night as the active ingredient is photo-sensitive.

GLYCOLIC PEELS

Glycolic acids and the other alpha-hydroxy acids help to gently peel the skin.  They can be used as creams or as chemical peels.  The strength of the peel is determined by the concentration of the acid in the peel.  By removing the top layers of the skin, the peels and creams help to "freshen" the skin by disposing of adherent dead cells.  In high concentrations, glycolic acid preparations can help stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin and soften lines.

For further information, please phone Esteem for your complimentary skin analysis where all you questions can be answered.